Deep in the cloud forest of Chiapas, Palenque preserves the tomb of Lord Pakal inside a pyramid built specifically as his funerary monument, alongside some of the most fully deciphered hieroglyphic inscriptions of any Classic Maya city.
At a glance
Palenque sits within dense tropical forest, and the calls of howler monkeys still carry across the canopy above the temples. Only a small proportion of the site has been excavated, with well over a thousand structures thought to remain buried under jungle.
The city is notable for its writing. Palenque’s hieroglyphic inscriptions are among the most fully deciphered of any Classic Maya centre, and three great stone tablets in the Temple of the Inscriptions, the Temple of the Cross and the Temple of the Sun record the city’s dynastic history in unusual detail.
Key facts
- Temple of the Inscriptions: the only pyramid in Mesoamerica known to have been built specifically as a funerary monument for a single identified ruler; its sealed burial chamber was found by Alberto Ruz Lhuillier, who noticed a slab with holes in the temple floor in 1949 and spent four years clearing the rubble-filled staircase before reaching the tomb in 1952.
- Lord Pakal (K’inich Janaab Pakal): ruled Palenque for 68 years, from 615 to 683 CE, coming to power at age 12 and dying at around 80; most of the city’s greatest monuments were built during his reign.
- The sarcophagus and mask: Pakal’s stone sarcophagus lid depicts him at the moment of death descending into the underworld, Xibalba; his jade death mask is now held in the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
- The Palace: a complex including a unique four-storey tower whose function is debated, with suggestions ranging from astronomical observatory to watchtower or crematorium.
- The epigraphy: the Temple of the Inscriptions houses three stone tablets bearing 617 hieroglyphs recording twelve generations of Palenque’s royal dynasty and the accession of Lord Pakal; the nearby Cross Group of temples was built by Pakal’s son, Chan Bahlum II.
- Heritage status: inscribed by UNESCO as the Pre-Hispanic City and National Park of Palenque in 1987.
History
The earliest evidence of occupation at Palenque dates to around 100 BCE. The city reached its greatest extent and power under Pakal, who reigned from 615 to 683 CE, and under his sons. Its greatest rival was the city of Toniná, and conflict between the two led to the capture of several Palenque rulers, leaving a lasting mark on the city’s dynastic record.
Palenque was abandoned around 800 CE and the jungle grew back over its structures. The Spanish explorer Antonio del Río visited the ruins in 1786, and the photographer Alfred Maudslay recorded its sculptures in the 1880s. The site was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
What you see
Visitors walk among temples rising from cleared ground within surrounding tropical forest, with howler monkeys audible in the canopy. Palenque has no ball court, unlike many other Maya cities. The city was built around the Otulum river, which Maya engineers channelled underground to form an aqueduct system running beneath the Palace; the sound of the water can still be heard below ground today.
Practical information
- Terrain and climate: the site lies within tropical forest, so heat, humidity and insects are a factor; visiting earlier or later in the day is generally more comfortable, and mosquito repellent is advisable.
- Footwear: sturdy shoes with good grip are recommended, as the limestone platforms become slippery when wet.
- Setting: the archaeological zone lies within Palenque National Park, which carries both cultural heritage and biosphere reserve status.
- The jade death mask: it is not displayed at Palenque itself; it is held in the Sala Maya of the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. The site museum at Palenque holds original stucco fragments instead.
Getting there
Palenque can be reached by flying into Villahermosa and continuing by bus, or by flying into Tuxtla Gutiérrez and travelling on via Ocosingo. An overnight bus service also runs from Mexico City to Palenque town. From the town, the archaeological zone is a short taxi or shared-van ride away. Check current routes and schedules with local transport operators before travelling.
Nearby
- Agua Azul and Misol-Ha waterfalls — south-east of Palenque town; Misol-Ha is a single plunge into a turquoise pool, while Agua Azul is a long series of cascades over blue limestone.
- Yaxchilán — east of Palenque, reached by minibus and boat; a Classic Maya city set on a loop of the Usumacinta River.
- Bonampak — near Yaxchilán; known for its well-preserved polychrome murals depicting battle, sacrifice and celebration.
- Chichén Itzá — a long journey north-east by bus or flight via Mérida; a separately inscribed UNESCO World Heritage Site, often combined with Palenque and Yaxchilán on a wider Maya route.
Sources
- Wikipedia
- UNESCO
- David Drew, The Lost Chronicles of the Maya Kings, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1999
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