Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio stands on an isolated tufa mesa in northern Lazio, connected to the world by a single pedestrian footbridge. Its population has dwindled to a handful of permanent residents — it is often called the Dying City — but its medieval streets, church, and views across the eroded Valle dei Calanchi make it one of the most haunting and beautiful sites in central Italy.

History

Founded by the Etruscans some 2,500 years ago, Civita grew under Roman rule and flourished in the medieval period as a prosperous hill town. Gradual erosion of the soft tufa plateau, accelerated by earthquakes over centuries, undermined the town’s foundations. Landslides from the 17th century onward progressively isolated the settlement, eventually collapsing the road connection and reducing the inhabited area to its present fragment. The philosopher and urban theorist Lewis Mumford called Civita di Bagnoregio a rare jewel of human civilization.

What to See

The historic centre — barely 500 metres across — contains the Romanesque church of San Donato, several medieval houses, ancient Etruscan caves cut into the rock beneath the streets, and astonishing panoramic views in every direction. The light on the tufa changes dramatically through the day. Arriving at dawn or dusk, when day-trippers have departed, reveals the town’s true character.

Getting There

Civita di Bagnoregio is reached via Bagnoregio, five kilometres away, which is served by buses from Viterbo (about 30 minutes). From Rome, the journey by public transport takes two to three hours. By car from Rome allow approximately 90 minutes via the A1 motorway toward Orvieto then south.

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