Jerash
The best-preserved Roman provincial city in the world outside Italy and the finest illustration of Roman urbanism in the Middle East — Jerash (ancient Gerasa; Jerash Governorate, Jordan) is a complete Roman city with intact colonnaded streets, theatres, temples, baths, and an oval forum that has no parallel anywhere in the Roman Empire.
At a glance
Jerash (the most precisely JerashJordan single Jerash Governorate Jordan ancient Gerasa Roman city 1st century BCE 5th century CE Decapolis Decapolis League Ten Cities ten cities league semi-autonomous federation Hellenistic cities eastern frontier Roman Empire Jerash Gerasa one of Decapolis Philadelphia Amman Scythopolis Beth-Shean Gadara Umm Qais Pella Abila Dium Capitolias Canatha members Jerash Gerasa greatest of Decapolis cities Alexander the Great tradition founded 332 BCE Seleucid kingdom 63 BCE Pompey Roman conquest Syria annexed Jerash into Roman province Syria 1st century CE Roman building programme 1st 2nd century CE greatest construction Trajan Hadrian period Hadrian visited 129 130 CE Arch of Hadrian 21m built to commemorate visit Antonine dynasty 2nd century CE peak population 20000 50000 population estimate city grew to 800 hectares Jordan Pompeii popular name best preserved Roman city outside Italy Pompeii Italy UNESCO heritage: the Roman road network visible at Jerash (the clearest surviving evidence of Roman urban planning): Jerash preserves the most intact Roman urban road network surviving in the world; the Cardo Maximus (the main north-south colonnaded street; 800m; 8m wide; originally lined by 600 Ionic columns; the chariot wheel ruts still cut deeply into the pavement stones — each rut 15 cm deep worn into the limestone by centuries of iron-rimmed wheels); the two Decumanus roads (east-west; perpendicular to the Cardo); the entire street grid of the city is preserved, allowing visitors to walk the actual routes of ancient Roman commerce and procession; the oval forum (the unique elliptical plaza at the south end of the Cardo) has no parallel in the Roman world — all known Roman forums are rectangular; scholars debate whether the Jerash oval was an accident of topography or a deliberate innovative design)) — the most precisely JerashJordan single Jerash Governorate Gerasa Roman Decapolis Ten Cities 63 BCE Pompey 1st 2nd century CE peak population 20000 50000 800 hectares Hadrian 129 130 CE Arch 21m Jordan Pompeii best preserved Roman city outside Italy Cardo Maximus 800m 600 Ionic columns chariot ruts 15 cm deep pavement oval forum unique Roman world no parallel all other forums rectangular scholars debate topography or deliberate design UNESCO heritage in any UNESCO world heritage site)).
Key facts
- The Oval Plaza (the only elliptical forum in the Roman world): the most precisely JerashJordan single Oval Plaza Forum Jerash 90m × 80m elongated ellipse 56 Ionic columns lining the ellipse 1st 2nd century CE construction paving stones original Roman paving still in place 2000 year old stones you walk on original Roman surface unique Romans always built rectangular forums all other examples rectangular this one oval elongated ellipse only oval forum Roman world debate topography argument: the Cardo Maximus approaches from the north at a slightly different angle than the Temple of Zeus axis coming from the south the oval forum resolves the misaligned axes connecting the north Cardo Maximus to the south Temple of Zeus axis a practical engineering solution that resulted in a unique architectural form the acoustic phenomenon the forum has extraordinary echo characteristics when clapping in the forum centre the handclap is reflected back by the colonnade columns in a distinctive pattern UNESCO heritage — the most debated architectural form in Roman urbanism: the Oval Plaza (Forum) of Jerash is the only elliptical forum in the entire Roman world (all other known Roman forums are rectangular); the 56 Ionic columns forming the ellipse are still standing (approximately 40 of the original 56 are original; the rest are restored or anastylotic reassembly); the paving stones of the original Roman pavement are still in place — visitors walk on the actual stones of a 1st-2nd century CE Roman plaza; the scholars’ debate: was the oval a deliberate design choice (an innovation unique to Gerasa), or was it a practical solution to a topographical problem (the Cardo Maximus and the Temple of Zeus axis approach the plaza from slightly different angles; the oval resolves the geometry)?
- GPS: 32.2762° N, 35.8907° E
History
From Hellenistic foundation to Roman Decapolis city to Byzantine Christian city to Islamic and modern Jerash (the most precisely JerashJordan single 332 BCE Alexander the Great Macedonia conquest Levant tradition says Gerasa founded Seleucid Greeks Antioch on the Chrysorroas Greek name for Jerash Seleucid period 4th 2nd century BCE Hellenistic city founded 63 BCE Pompey Roman conquest Syria Decapolis cities Roman autonomous allied 1st century CE Roman construction programme began major monumental building Flavian dynasty Vespasian Titus Domitian 1st century CE 129 130 CE Emperor Hadrian visited Jerash Arch of Hadrian built in honor his visit 21m high triumphal arch outside city wall planned but never completed second city wall around new southern quarter abandoned due to plague 150 CE peak of Jerash Roman prosperity population maximum North Theatre South Theatre Cathedral Nymphaeum Temple of Artemis 2nd century CE 4th century CE Christianization Constantine 313 CE Edict of Milan temples converted churches new churches built 5th 6th century CE 12 Byzantine churches excavated Jerash mosque converted church Cathedral 614 CE Sassanid Persian conquest 636 CE Islamic Arab conquest Mu’tah Battle Yarmouk Muslim Arab armies 747 CE earthquake catastrophic Galilee earthquake 749 CE destroyed most of Jerash population abandoned thereafter ruins buried under meters of debris soil 1806 CE Ulrich Seetzen German traveller first European rediscovery Jerash 1920s CE British Mandate Palestine excavations first major excavations Jerash Antiquities UNESCO heritage: the Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts (the most extraordinary modern use of a Roman theatre): the Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts (established 1981 CE; annual in late July-August) is held in the Roman theatres and plazas of the ancient city; the South Theatre (5,000-seat capacity; built under Domitian, ca. 90-92 CE; one of the best-preserved Roman theatres in the world; the acoustics allow a whisper on stage to be heard in the upper tiers without amplification) is the main venue; concerts of Arabic classical music, Jordanian folk performances, and international artists are held in a theatre built 2,000 years ago; the experience of hearing live music in a functioning Roman theatre under the stars, with the torchlit columns of the Cardo Maximus visible beyond the stage, is one of the most extraordinary cultural experiences in the Middle East)) — the most precisely JerashJordan single 332 BCE Alexander Seleucid Antioch on Chrysorroas 63 BCE Pompey Decapolis 1st century CE Flavian 129 130 CE Hadrian Arch 21m planned second wall abandoned plague 150 CE peak North Theatre South Theatre Cathedral Nymphaeum Temple Artemis 4th century CE Christianization 5th 6th century CE 12 Byzantine churches 747 CE earthquake Galilee 749 CE Jerash abandoned buried 1806 CE Seetzen first European 1920s CE British Mandate first excavations Jerash Festival Culture Arts 1981 CE South Theatre 5000 seats Domitian 90 92 CE UNESCO heritage in any UNESCO world heritage site)).
What you see
Hadrian’s Arch, the Oval Plaza, and the Temple of Artemis (the most precisely JerashJordan single Hadrian’s Arch Triumphal Arch 21m high 129 CE outside southern city wall southernmost major triumphal arch Roman world built for Hadrian’s visit Hippodrome chariot racing 245m × 51m outside city wall Hadrian’s Arch oval forum 56 Ionic columns original paving stones Cardo Maximus 800m colonnaded north-south chariot ruts 15 cm deep limestone pavement South Theatre Domitian 90 92 CE 5000 seat capacity original cavea seating still used today North Theatre Trajan 70 CE smaller more intimate 1600 seats political council assembly building originally council hall bouleuterion Temple Zeus 162 CE Roman imperial cult temple monumental staircase leading from Oval Plaza to Temple Zeus highest point south side city Temple Artemis 150 180 CE largest temple Jerash dedicated Artemis patron goddess Gerasa 6 of original 11 columns still standing each column 12m high 1.3m diameter monumental propylaea temple forecourt 600m approach from west cathedral Byzantine church 4th century CE built on earlier temple site Nymphaeum 191 CE monumental public fountain two-storey facade marble decorations originally water cascade into pool below Cathedral street Byzantine mosaic fragments UNESCO heritage: the Temple of Artemis and the swaying columns (the most dramatic structural feature at Jerash): the Temple of Artemis (ca. 150-180 CE; the largest and most impressive temple at Jerash; dedicated to Artemis, the patron goddess of Gerasa) has 6 of its original 11 columns still standing; each column is 12m high and 1.3m in diameter; the extraordinary fact: if you push gently against one of these columns, it moves visibly — the columns sway slightly because of the sophisticated seismic engineering of the foundations (each column rests on a small square base with a thin lead sheet underneath, allowing the column to rock micro-millimetres in response to earth tremors; this is the Roman engineers’ solution to earthquake resistance — the lead sheet allows the column to return to vertical after a small tremor rather than fracturing at the base))) — the most precisely JerashJordan single Hadrian’s Arch 21m 129 CE southernmost major Roman triumphal arch Hippodrome 245m × 51m Oval Forum 56 Ionic original paving Cardo Maximus 800m chariot ruts 15 cm South Theatre Domitian 90 92 CE 5000 seats still used North Theatre Trajan 70 CE 1600 bouleuterion council assembly Temple Zeus 162 CE highest south Oval Plaza Temple Artemis 150 180 CE 6 of 11 columns 12m 1.3m diameter swaying columns lead sheet earthquake seismic engineering Nymphaeum 191 CE two-storey fountain Cathedral Byzantine 4th century CE mosaics UNESCO heritage in any UNESCO world heritage site)).
Practical information
- Getting there: from Amman: JETT bus from Tabarbour station (1h; every 30 min; JD 1/€1.25) or taxi (50 km; 45 min; approximately JD 20/€25 one way; agree fare before); the Jordan Pass (JD 70/€90 for 1-day Petra entry + all archaeological sites including Jerash + Jordan visa fee; the best-value option for visitors doing Petra and Jerash; available online at jordanpass.jo before arrival); the Jerash entry fee (JD 10/€12.50 without Jordan Pass; includes access to all major monuments); the Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts (annual in late July-August; tickets JD 15-35/€18-44; performed in the South Theatre; one of the great cultural experiences of the Middle East); the visiting time (minimum 2h for the main circuit; 4h for the complete site including the North Theatre, the North Gate, and the North Decumanus); the best time (October-April; June-August can reach 35°C+ and the exposed site has little shade; the site is at its most spectacular at the Jerash Festival in late July-August (evening performances in the South Theatre))
Getting there
From Amman: JETT bus 1h (JD 1). Jordan Pass JD 70 includes Jerash + Petra + visa (buy online). Site entry JD 10. Jerash Festival late July-August in South Theatre (JD 15-35). Allow 2-4h. Best: October-April. GPS: 32.2762, 35.8907.
Nearby
- Ajloun Castle — 25 km northwest (the Ayyubid fortress (1184-1185 CE) built by Izz al-Din Usama (a nephew of Saladin) to control the iron mines of the Ajloun region and to protect the crossing of the Jordan River against Crusader attack; the finest Islamic military architecture in northern Jordan; the hillside views over the Ajloun forest and the Jordan Valley (and on clear days, as far as the Sea of Galilee in Israel) are extraordinary; free entry with Jordan Pass)
- Umm Qais (Gadara) — 80 km north (one of the Decapolis cities; overlooking the Sea of Galilee, the Yarmouk River gorge, and the Syrian and Israeli hills; a spectacular location; the black basalt colonnaded street and theatre; the site where the Gospel of Mark records the miracle of the Gadarene swine; the on-site museum in the Ottoman-era village houses (extraordinary view from the terrace over the Yarmouk gorge))
Sources
- Wikipedia, Jerash; Oval Plaza, Jerash; Temple of Artemis, Jerash; Decapolis, accessed June 2026
- Jordan Tourism Board, Jerash; Department of Antiquities Jordan, Jerash Archaeological Site
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