Bete Merkorios: the church some say was once a prison, reached through a tunnel of total darkness
A Lalibela, in Etiopia, la chiesa di Bete Merkorios appartiene al gruppo orientale delle chiese scavate nella roccia, insieme a Bete Gabriel-Rufael, Bete Amanuel e Bete Abba Libanos, e vi si accede attraverso un lungo tunnel stretto e completamente buio proveniente dal lato di Bete Gabriel-Rufael. Come per la vicina Gabriel-Rufael, alcune fonti citano l’archeologo di Cambridge David Phillipson a sostegno dell’ipotesi che Merkorios possa essere stata scavata secoli prima del regno di re Lalibela, in epoca aksumita (approssimativamente tra il 600 e l’800 d.C.), come struttura fortificata o secolare, solo successivamente convertita all’uso religioso: un’ipotesi ripresa soprattutto da fonti turistiche, non ancora confermata da una pubblicazione accademica primaria consultabile. Più nello specifico, diverse fonti riportano che nella trincea che circonda Bete Merkorios sarebbero stati rinvenuti resti di catene e ceppi di ferro, un dato citato a sostegno della teoria secondo cui la chiesa avrebbe in origine funzionato come carcere: anche questo dettaglio, per quanto ampiamente ripetuto, proviene principalmente da fonti divulgative piuttosto che da studi archeologici verificabili. La struttura ha subito il crollo della facciata e di parte del tetto, ed è stata oggetto di un intervento di ricostruzione sostenuto dalla comunità locale intorno al 1982; risulta oggi meno visitata delle altre chiese di Lalibela, anche a causa del suo stato e dell’accesso più impegnativo. La chiesa è dedicata a san Mercurio (Abba Mercoreus), venerato nella tradizione ortodossa etiope come santo martire militare. Dal 1978 fa parte del Patrimonio Mondiale UNESCO “Chiese scavate nella roccia di Lalibela”.
About Bete Merkorios
Bete Merkorios, in Lalibela, Ethiopia, belongs to the eastern cluster of the town’s rock-hewn churches, alongside Bete Gabriel-Rufael, Bete Amanuel and Bete Abba Libanos, reached through a long, narrow, completely dark tunnel leading from the Bete Gabriel-Rufael side. As with neighbouring Gabriel-Rufael, some sources cite the Cambridge archaeologist David Phillipson in support of the hypothesis that Merkorios may have been carved centuries before King Lalibela’s reign, during the Aksumite period, roughly 600 to 800 CE, as a fortified or secular structure only later converted to religious use — a theory repeated mainly by tourism sources rather than confirmed in an accessible primary academic publication. More specifically, several sources report that remains of iron shackles were found in the trench surrounding Bete Merkorios, cited in support of the theory that the church originally functioned as a prison; this detail, though widely repeated, likewise traces mainly to popular rather than rigorously verifiable archaeological sources. The structure has suffered the collapse of its facade and part of its roof, undergoing a community-supported reconstruction effort around 1982; it remains today less visited than Lalibela’s other churches, partly due to its condition and more demanding access. The church is dedicated to Saint Mercurius, venerated in Ethiopian Orthodox tradition as a military martyr saint. Since 1978, it has formed part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Rock-Hewn Churches, Lalibela.”
Key facts
- Possible Aksumite origin (c. 600-800 CE), per a scholarly hypothesis, predating King Lalibela’s reign
- Reached via a long, dark tunnel from the neighbouring Bete Gabriel-Rufael
- Prison theory: iron shackle remains reportedly found in the surrounding trench
- Dedicated to Saint Mercurius, a military martyr saint
- c. 1982: community-supported reconstruction following partial collapse of the facade and roof
- 1978: becomes part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Rock-Hewn Churches, Lalibela”
History
Bete Merkorios’s damaged condition and comparatively low visitor numbers set it apart from Lalibela’s more celebrated churches, yet its debated pre-Lalibela origins and persistent prison tradition give it a distinct place in the wider scholarly conversation about the complex’s true chronology. Alongside neighbouring Bete Gabriel-Rufael, it forms part of a small cluster of Lalibela churches whose unconventional layouts have prompted researchers to question whether all eleven structures were truly conceived as churches from the outset.
What you see
Visitors reach the church through a long, pitch-dark tunnel connecting it to Bete Gabriel-Rufael, emerging into a structure whose damaged facade and roof bear the marks of past collapse and later community reconstruction. The surrounding trench, where iron shackle remains are reportedly documented, adds a further layer of historical intrigue to a church already set apart by its unusual access and construction.
Practical information
- Opening hours: generally open daily with seasonal variation; admission fee applies; access via dark tunnel, bring a light source; check current hours before visiting
- Address: Lalibela, Amhara Region, Ethiopia
Getting there
Bete Merkorios stands within the eastern cluster of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches, reached via a tunnel from Bete Gabriel-Rufael, within the town. GPS: 12.0316° N, 39.0455° E.
Nearby
- Bete Gabriel-Rufael — the adjoining fortress-like church, connected by tunnel
- Bete Amanuel — considered the most architecturally refined of Lalibela’s churches, nearby
- Lalibela town — the surrounding highland town, source of the church complex’s name
Sources
- Wikipedia — “Biete Qeddus Mercoreus” (en.wikipedia.org)
- Lonely Planet — “Bet Merkorios, Lalibela” (lonelyplanet.com)
- UNESCO World Heritage Centre — “Rock-Hewn Churches, Lalibela” (whc.unesco.org)
Find it on the map
See this place and what’s around it →📷 Diventa un fotografo di Cultural Heritage Online
Condividi le tue foto dei luoghi: restano pubblicate con la tua firma come autore. Più vengono viste, più ti fai conoscere — e presto un concorso premierà le foto più apprezzate.
Accedi o registrati gratis per aggiungere una foto