Castello di Masino — Canavese, Piemonte (FAI)
A medieval castle on a moraine hill above the Canavese plain — residence of the Valperga counts for seven hundred years — whose interior preserves the most complete set of eighteenth-century rooms in any FAI property: a library of 25,000 volumes, a Hall of Maps, a portrait gallery of the Savoy kings, and a chapel with frescoes by Giambattista Crosato — all intact, unrestorated, and available to walk through on a two-hour guided tour that reads like a novel about the Piedmontese nobility from the Middle Ages to 1988.
At a glance
The Castello di Masino occupies a glacial moraine hill at 425 metres above the Canavese plain, 30 km north of Turin near the town of Caravino (TO). The castle was the seat of the Valperga family — a branch of the ancient counts of Turin — for approximately seven hundred years; the oldest surviving fabric dates from the tenth and eleventh centuries, with major rebuildings in the thirteenth, sixteenth, and eighteenth centuries. In 1988, the last heir to the property, Count Carlo Valperga di Masino, donated the castle, its contents, and its 32-hectare park to the FAI (Fondo Ambiente Italiano) — Italy’s national trust equivalent, founded in 1975 on the model of the British National Trust.
The castle is now the FAI’s most architecturally complete historic house property. The 66 rooms open to the public range from the medieval tower and the Baroque chapel to the eighteenth-century state apartments, including the Biblioteca (25,000 volumes, with original shelving and ladders), the Galleria dei Re (portrait gallery of the kings of Sardinia and Italy), the Sala delle Mappe, and a series of private apartments furnished as they were in the early twentieth century.
Key facts
- Foundation: X–XI century (tower and first enclosure); property of the Valperga counts
- Major rebuildings: XIII, XVI, XVIII centuries
- Biblioteca: 25,000 volumes; original shelving; 18th century
- Cappella: frescoes by Giambattista Crosato (1750s)
- Park: 32 hectares; Italian formal garden + English landscape garden; rose collection
- FAI donation: 1988, Count Carlo Valperga di Masino → FAI; open to public from 1992
- GPS: 45.3583, 7.8000 — Google Maps
History
The Valperga family were one of the oldest noble houses of Piedmont — their origins in the Canavese region predate the establishment of the Savoy dynasty in Turin, and their loyalty to first the Savoys and later the kingdom of Sardinia made them one of the most important families in Piedmontese political life from the twelfth century onward. The castle’s location on a moraine hill was strategic: it commanded the routes from the Po plain to the Alpine passes, and the medieval tower (still standing at the castle’s highest point) was a signalling station in the communication network that connected Turin to the northern passes. The Valperga were also major patrons of literature: the poetess Bianca di Savoia Acaia lived at Masino in the early fifteenth century, and the castle’s library was built up over three centuries of intellectual collecting.
The eighteenth century was the great building period: the Valperga of the early 1700s remodelled the state apartments in the Baroque manner that was transforming Turin (and, via the Savoy connection, all of Piedmont) at this period. The architect is uncertain, but the work is consistent with the Piedmontese school of the period. The frescoes in the chapel by Giambattista Crosato (c. 1750) — Crosato was the principal fresco painter working in Turin at this time, and had painted the Royal Palace at Turin and the Stupinigi hunting lodge — represent the highest level of decorative ambition that the Valperga were able to commission.
What you see
The guided tour (obligatory; 2 hours; departures at specific times, check the FAI website) moves through the full sequence of 66 rooms, from the medieval tower basement to the eighteenth-century apartments. The most extraordinary spaces are: the Biblioteca — a double-height room with original wooden shelving running floor to ceiling on all four sides, 25,000 volumes, rolling ladders, and light from east-facing windows that makes the gilt spines of the eighteenth-century bindings glow in morning light; the Galleria dei Re, with the Valperga collection of royal portraits from the kings of Sardinia to Victor Emmanuel II, in original gilt frames; and the Cappella, whose ceiling frescoes by Crosato have never been restored and retain the original surface quality that is invariably lost in modern conservation work.
The park (free access; open daily during FAI opening hours) is a 32-hectare combination of a formal Italian parterre garden near the castle and an English landscape garden on the slopes below. The rose collection (peak bloom: late May to June) is one of the largest in Piedmont. From the castle terrace, the views over the Canavese plain to the Alps and the Serra moraine ridge are wide and unobstructed — on clear days, the Gran Paradiso massif is visible.
Gallery
Practical information
- Opening: March–November, weekends and public holidays; some weekday openings in April–October. Check the FAI website (fondoambiente.it/luoghi/castello-di-masino) for the exact calendar — hours and days change by season.
- Admission: ~€15 full; ~€8 FAI members (annual membership ~€50, valid at all 70+ FAI properties). Park only: ~€5.
- Guided tour: Obligatory for the castle interior; departures at set times; book online in high season.
- Best season: Late May–early June (rose garden in bloom; long light evenings on the terrace).
Getting there
Caravino is 30 km north of Turin on the SP460 (Canavese road) toward Ivrea. By car: from Turin 35–45 minutes (A5 Torino–Ivrea, exit Scarmagno, then SP460 north toward Caravino; the castle is signed). No public transport to the castle itself; the nearest train station is Ivrea (10 km), with connections to Turin (~40 minutes). Ivrea is the nearest town with accommodation. From Milan: A4 to Turin + A5 north, 2 hours. From Geneva: A32 over Fréjus or the Aosta valley route, 2 hours.
Nearby
- Ivrea e il Canavese Storico — 10 km north; the Olivetti factory town with Adriano Olivetti’s social housing (1930s–1960s), UNESCO 2018; the carnival (Battaglia delle Arance) in February is the most famous carnival event in Piedmont
- Lago di Viverone — 5 km south-east; the largest glacial lake in Piedmont, with Bronze Age pile dwellings (UNESCO 2011) on its southern shore
- Serra Morenica d’Ivrea — the glacial moraine ridge running north-south across the Canavese plain; the panoramic road on the ridge crest passes through villages with views of the Alps and the plain from both sides
Sources
- FAI: fondoambiente.it/luoghi/castello-di-masino
- Wikipedia EN: Castle of Masino
- Varallo, Franca (ed.): Il Castello di Masino, FAI/Electa, 1995
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