Taverna Al Remer
Taverna Al Remer is a historic Venetian tavern and bacaro in the Cannaregio sestiere, occupying a medieval palazzo with a courtyard loggia that opens directly onto the Grand Canal. Named after the remeri — the oar-makers whose guild workshop once stood nearby — the tavern maintains the centuries-old Venetian tradition of serving wine by the glass alongside cicchetti and simple cooked dishes in an atmosphere of authentic civic life, far removed from the tourist restaurants of the Piazza San Marco axis.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic tavern and bacaro
- Period
- Medieval building; long-standing establishment
- Style
- Venetian osteria, cicchetti and wine
- Location
- Cannaregio, Venice, Veneto, Italy
- Coordinates
- 45.4394° N, 12.3365° E
Overview
Cannaregio is Venice's most populous sestiere, stretching from the railway station to the northern edge of the city and encompassing the Jewish Ghetto — the world's first, established in 1516 — as well as Ca' d'Oro, one of the finest Gothic palaces on the Grand Canal. Al Remer sits in this living quarter of the city, where Venetians still outnumber tourists, and functions as a neighbourhood anchor. The building's loggia, with its pointed Gothic arches, was originally part of a medieval commercial structure; the current tavern preserves the spatial character of the original while serving its guests under the same arches that once sheltered merchants arriving by water.
History
The remeri were a major Venetian guild; their art — shaping the distinctive asymmetric oars and forcole (rowlocks) used by gondoliers — required exceptional skill and was tightly regulated by the Republic. The street name Calle del Remer preserves their memory. Taverns in this quarter served the working craftsmen of Venice's maritime economy for centuries, offering wine from the Veneto and Friuli, dried and preserved fish from the Rialto, and simple hot dishes prepared without the pretensions of the noble table. The modern Al Remer carries this identity forward while welcoming a wider clientele attracted by the setting and the authenticity of the experience.
What you see
The courtyard loggia is the heart of the experience: Gothic arches framing a direct view of Grand Canal traffic — vaporetti, delivery barges, gondolas, and private motor launches passing constantly. Inside, the medieval masonry is intact, with exposed stone walls and heavy timber beams. The counter displays a changing array of cicchetti; the wine selection emphasises Veneto and Friuli DOC wines, with particular focus on Soave, Pinot Grigio, and the local ombra glass tradition. In the evening, candlelit tables in the loggia make this one of Venice's most atmospheric dining settings.
Cultural significance
Al Remer represents the survival of a genuine Venetian tavern tradition in a city where authentic local establishments are under sustained pressure from the economics of mass tourism. Its architectural setting — a medieval loggia on the Grand Canal — places it within the fabric of Venice's built heritage, making a meal here an experience of the city's layered history as much as a gastronomic one. The connection to the remeri guild links the tavern to the intangible heritage of Venetian maritime craftsmanship, which UNESCO has recognised in its protection of the gondola-building tradition.
Practical information
- Location
- Cannaregio, Venice, Veneto, Italy
- Hours
- Check official website or contact directly for current opening hours; typically open from late morning through evening
- Access
- Venice is car-free; arrive by train to Santa Lucia station or by watercraft
Getting there
From Venice Santa Lucia station, walk east through Cannaregio (approximately 10–15 minutes on foot) or take vaporetto line 1 or 2 along the Grand Canal to the Ca' d'Oro stop, from which the tavern is a short walk. From Marco Polo Airport, take the Alilaguna water bus directly to central Venice; journey time approximately 75 minutes.