On the west bank of the Ganges, Varanasi is held to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth. Hindus believe that dying here frees the soul from the cycle of rebirth, and the city’s 88 riverfront ghats remain in constant use for cremation, ritual bathing and the nightly Ganga Aarti.
At a glance
Varanasi, also called Kashi or Banaras, is the holiest city in Hinduism. Tradition holds that a person who dies within the city achieves moksha, liberation from the cycle of birth, death and rebirth, and the elderly and terminally ill travel here from across India to spend their final days. Hospices known as Mukti Bhawans, or Liberation Houses, take in guests for this purpose, though only for a limited period. The Ganges itself is considered the most sacred river in Hinduism, and ritual bathing in its waters is believed to wash away sin.
Key facts
- Manikarnika Ghat: the city’s main cremation ground, burning continuously; only members of the Dom caste are permitted to tend the fires, and the hereditary Dom Raja keeps what tradition describes as an eternal flame, though this is a legend rather than a documented fact.
- Ganga Aarti: performed every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat by young priests using oil lamps, fire, conch shells and flowers in synchronised ritual; it is best watched from a boat on the river.
- Sarnath: a short distance north of the city, this is where the Buddha is said to have preached his first sermon after his enlightenment at Bodh Gaya.
- Dhamek Stupa: a large brick stupa at Sarnath marking the traditional site of that sermon.
History
Varanasi has been inhabited since roughly 1200 BCE, and some archaeological evidence points to occupation earlier still. The Buddha is recorded as having visited and preached in the area. The city was attacked and partly destroyed on several occasions during the Muslim conquests of northern India; the Kashi Vishwanath Temple was demolished on the order of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in 1669, and a mosque was built on part of the site. The present Kashi Vishwanath Temple was constructed in 1780 by the Maratha ruler Ahilyabai Holkar and remains the most important temple in Hinduism.
What you see
Varanasi’s riverfront is made up of 88 ghats, broad stone steps running down to the Ganges, each with its own name and purpose. Assi Ghat, the southernmost, is popular with students and sadhus. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the busiest, host to the nightly Ganga Aarti. Manikarnika Ghat is given over to cremation, and Harishchandra Ghat, a second cremation site, is quieter and less visited. At Panchganga Ghat, five rivers are said to converge invisibly beneath the water. A boat ride along the ghats at dawn, when the stone glows orange and pilgrims bathe as priests perform their rituals, shows the city at its most vivid.
Practical information
- Where to stay: staying close to the ghats gives the fullest sense of the city; the area around Assi Ghat is generally quieter than that around Dashashwamedh Ghat.
- Getting around: the narrow lanes of Old Varanasi are impassable to cars, so cycle rickshaws are the main means of transport.
- The river: the Ganges at Varanasi is heavily polluted despite its sacred status, and its water should not be drunk or swallowed.
- Conduct: modest dress and quiet, respectful behaviour are expected near the cremation ghats; photography at Manikarnika is a sensitive matter and mourning families should never be photographed without explicit permission.
Getting there
Varanasi is served by Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport, some distance outside the city. It also has rail connections, including overnight services from Delhi and trains from Agra and Kolkata. Travellers wanting to see the ghats at their best generally plan to arrive in time for a boat ride at dawn.
Nearby
- Sarnath — a short journey north of the city; site of the Buddha’s first sermon, with the Dhamek Stupa, an archaeological museum holding the Ashoka Lion Capital, and the Mulagandhakuti Vihara temple.
- Ramnagar Fort — across the Ganges to the south; the palace and fort of the Maharajas of Varanasi, with a Durbar Hall museum of vintage cars, palanquins, royal costume and arms; the fort is also the stage each autumn for the Ram Lila, a month-long theatrical staging of the Rama story performed across the city.
- Allahabad (Prayagraj) — some distance west by train; site of the Triveni Sangam, the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and the mythological Saraswati, and periodic host to the Kumbh Mela, among the largest gatherings of pilgrims anywhere; also home to Allahabad Fort, built under Akbar in 1583.
Sources
- Wikipedia, Varanasi
- Wikipedia, Manikarnika Ghat
- Wikipedia, Ganga Aarti
- Wikipedia, Sarnath
- Diana Eck, Banaras: City of Light, Princeton University Press, 1982
- Mark Twain, Following the Equator, American Publishing Company, 1897
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