Il Ritorno in Baianita Restaurant
Il Ritorno in Baianita is a restaurant on the Passeggiata dei Pescatori in Voze, a hamlet of the ancient comune of Noli on the Ligurian Riviera di Ponente. The name — “The Return to Baianita” — invokes a local toponym and the deep seafaring identity of this coastline, where Noli was once a powerful independent Maritime Republic rivalling Genoa, Pisa, Venice and Amalfi.
At a glance
- Type
- Restaurant
- Period
- Contemporary
- Style
- Ligurian seafood and traditional cuisine
- Location
- Passeggiata dei Pescatori, Voze, Noli (SV), Liguria, Italy
- Coordinates
- 44.2060° N, 8.4172° E
Overview
Noli is one of Italy’s five historic Maritime Republics and its medieval townscape — with its towers, the cathedral of San Pietro and the 13th-century castle on the hill above — is among the best preserved on the Ligurian coast. Voze is a small coastal hamlet within the municipality, set on a promontory between Noli and Spotorno, with views across the Gulf of Noli towards the island of Bergeggi. The restaurant’s position on the Passeggiata dei Pescatori (Fishermen’s Promenade) situates it directly in the working maritime tradition of this ancient community.
History
Noli’s history as a maritime power dates to the 11th century, when it established an independent republic that participated in the Crusades and maintained its own fleet and commercial network across the Mediterranean. The republic’s independence lasted until 1797, making it one of the longest-surviving of the Italian maritime states. The medieval towers and the castle of Noli, visible from the surrounding waters, are direct survivors of this republican era and constitute the most complete ensemble of medieval civic architecture on the Riviera di Ponente.
What you see
From Voze and the Passeggiata dei Pescatori the view encompasses the Gulf of Noli, the limestone cliffs of Capo Noli to the south and the island of Bergeggi to the east — a protected marine area visible as a rocky silhouette offshore. Noli’s medieval towers, the cathedral of San Pietro (12th century) and the church of San Paragorio (one of the oldest Romanesque churches in Liguria, 11th century) are within easy reach. The promontory landscape of olive groves and macchia mediterranea is typical of the western Ligurian coast.
Cultural significance
As one of Italy’s five Maritime Republics, Noli holds a unique constitutional and cultural status: its seal, alongside those of Venice, Genoa, Pisa and Amalfi, appears on the Italian Navy’s ensign. Dining in the Noli area means participating in a living seafaring culture whose roots extend to the early medieval period, with fresh fish and traditional recipes — ciuppin (fish soup), cappon magro, pansoti — at the heart of the local table.
Practical information
- Address
- Passeggiata dei Pescatori, Voze, 17026 Noli SV, Italy
- Hours
- Check official website or contact the restaurant directly
- Admission
- À la carte; no entry fee
Getting there
The nearest railway station is Spotorno–Noli on the Genoa–Ventimiglia coastal line (approx. 1 km from Noli centre). By car, exit the A10 motorway at Spotorno and follow the coast road (Via Aurelia) to Noli and Voze. The seafront promenade is accessible on foot from Noli’s centre in approximately 15 minutes.