Gold-lacquered halls guarded by bats – King Joao V’s library where colony-rich baroque shelves 60,000 volumes and nocturnal colonies eat the bookworms.
At a glance
- Type
- University library (UNESCO within Coimbra ensemble)
- Period
- 1717-1728
- Style
- Portuguese High Baroque
- Location
- University of Coimbra, Portugal
- Coordinates
- 40.2075, -8.4261
- Patron
- King Joao V (Brazilian gold’s patronage)
Overview
The Joanina stacks Brazil’s gold into three chambers of chinoiserie lacquer – green, red, and black rooms ascending to the king’s portrait – 60,000 leather spines behind gilt grilles on the university hilltop UNESCO lists entire. By night, resident bat colonies patrol the vaults for insects, the famous biological conservation corps; oak tables get leather covers at dusk.
History
Joao V’s 1717 charter built Europe’s richest library room while Mafra rose – absolutism’s twin statements; the academic prison beneath (Portugal’s last medieval jail) held unruly students into the 1830s. The university of 1290 around it – Manueline chapel, ceremonial halls – wears black-caped students whose fado serenades date the courtyards.
Architecture and Design
Triumphal-arch doorcases link the rooms’ colour sequence; trompe-l’oeil ceilings crown shelves of exotic woods. The two-metre walls and door’s seal stabilize the climate the bats complete – baroque environmental engineering.
Cultural significance
The Joanina is the baroque library’s gold standard (literally) and Coimbra’s crown – the gown city’s shrine where Portugal’s empire bought eternity in books.
Visiting today
Timed 20-minute entries sell with the Paco das Escolas ticket; no photos inside. May’s Queima das Fitas fills the hill with student ribbons.
Getting there
Coimbra lies two hours from Lisbon or Porto by rail; the hilltop climbs from the Baixa’s arcades.
Sources and resources
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