A small wine osteria in a courtyard behind Campo San Bartolomeo, two minutes from Rialto and out of the current of the crowd. It opened at the end of the 1980s.
At a glance
- Type
- Osteria and wine bar
- Opened
- 1989, with the doors reported open from March 1990
- Where
- Campiello del Tentor, San Marco 5513
- Open
- Every day, 11:30–15:00 and 18:30–01:00
- Recognition
- Gambero Rosso, three Cavatappi, 2020
Overview
The osteria stands in a small enclosed campiello a few steps from Campo San Bartolomeo, which is one of the busiest crossings in Venice: the contrast between the two is the reason people come. Wine is the centre of the house, chosen glass by glass, with cichéti and a short kitchen alongside.
History
The house dates itself to 1989 and describes an osteria carried on by the same family since then, today run by Giovanni, a professional sommelier. An independent Venetian account adds that it was founded by Manuela and Roberto, out of the remains of the Osteria da Guelfo, which had been in the city since the 1940s, and that the doors opened in March 1990.
None of this is in the regional register of historic places of commerce, and it could not be: that register requires forty years of opening to the public, and the osteria is not yet old enough to apply.
Venetians will recognise the name from Goldoni: I rusteghi, staged in Venice in 1760, is his comedy of four stubborn traditionalists of the city’s petty bourgeoisie — men who, as Treccani puts it, are set in their ways but generous underneath. Whether the osteria was named after the play is not documented anywhere, and we do not claim it was.
What you see
A narrow room with bottles along the walls and a few tables outside in the campiello when the weather allows. It seats very few people, which is the point of the place.
Practical information
- Address: Campiello del Tentor, San Marco 5513, Venezia
- Open: every day, 11:30–15:00 and 18:30–01:00
- Telephone: +39 041 523 2205
- Finding it: the campiello is enclosed and easy to walk past; it opens off the calli between Campo San Bartolomeo and the Fondaco dei Tedeschi
Nearby
- Bacaro Corte dell’Orso — Bar, 8 m away
- Fondaco dei Tedeschi — 49 m away
- Teatro Malibran — 111 m away
Sources
- The establishment’s own account, for the family and the year 1989
- Independent Venetian guide reporting the founders and the opening in March 1990
- Comune di Padova, culture portal, and Treccani, for the dating and the characters of Goldoni’s I rusteghi (1760)
- Regione Veneto, register of historic places of commerce — the osteria does not appear, and does not yet meet the forty-year threshold
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