Curated Itinerary

Ombre and cichéti: a Venice walk from the Rialto counters to Titian’s house

Five places between Rialto, San Marco, Castello and Cannaregio where Venice has eaten and drunk standing up, in under three kilometres. An osteria at the sign of the two swords is documented near San Matteo di Rialto from 1414; in 1488 its host led the innkeepers’ guild, and Casanova supped there on a carnival night in 1745. A few steps away, Naranzaria trades under the arcades Scarpagnino raised after the fire of 1514, on the stretch of market once called the Naranzeria, where the citrus of the Mediterranean was sold. Caffè Florian opened on 29 December 1720 under the sign Alla Venezia Trionfante and has traded in the same rooms ever since, its interiors remade by Lodovico Cadorin from 1858. All’Aciugheta has been run by Gianni Bonaccorsi since 1978. The walk ends at the house Titian rented in 1531 and died in forty-five years later, which still holds the last gold-beater’s workshop in Venice.

5stops
2.7km
3h 45mduration
moderatedifficulty
all-yearbest season

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From Cantina Do Spade – Virtual Tour 360° to Casa di Tiziano ai Biri – Virtual Tour 360°, in the order we curated them.

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It opens in the Google Maps app with every stop already loaded, in the order we put them in. From there the route is yours: pick how you travel — on foot, by bike, by public transport or by car — change where you start and where you end, drag the stops into a different order, and add places of your own along the way.

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Step by step

2
Naranzaria, Rialto

Naranzaria, Rialto

Under the arcades Scarpagnino raised at Rialto after the fire of 1514, on the stretch of market once called the Naranzeria, where the citrus of the Mediterranean was sold.

Dwell ~40min

3
Caffè Florian – Virtual Tour 360°

Caffè Florian – Virtual Tour 360°

Opened on 29 December 1720 under the sign “Alla Venezia Trionfante” and trading in the same rooms ever since: the oldest café in Italy, its interiors remade by Lodovico Cadorin from 1858.

Dwell ~45min

4

All’Aciugheta

A bacaro off Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo, run by Gianni Bonaccorsi since 1978 and known for the small anchovy pizza descended from the old anchovy roll.

Dwell ~40min

Download for tour navigation

🔒 The walk and the notes are open to everyone on this page. The files to take with you — the stop list as a PDF, and the GPX and KML tracks for your phone — come with a CHO account, and the free one includes them.

Walk it with the navigator on

It opens in the Google Maps app with every stop already loaded, in the order we put them in. From there the route is yours: pick how you travel — on foot, by bike, by public transport or by car — change where you start and where you end, drag the stops into a different order, and add places of your own along the way.

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