James Joyce died in Zurich on 13 January 1941, but the city that made him a writer was Trieste. He arrived in October 1904 to teach English, stayed — with interruptions — until 1920, and worked there on Dubliners and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. The Trieste he walked, Austro-Hungarian and polyglot, raising its Liberty facades along the sea, still keeps his rooms, his school and a museum in his name.
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