Pocitelj Village

Pocitelj (a hamlet of Capljina) is a village in Bosnia Herzegovina, which the Bosnian writer Ivo Andri called the "stone city" demonstrating a peak village, with less than a thousand souls, which seems to have originated from the mountain on which it is located. perched a few hundred meters from the right bank of the Neretva River.

After Mostar, along the embankment of the Neretva towards the Croatian border, we arrive at this picturesque village nestled in the surrounding mountain which is a "must see" to discover a fortified Ottoman village of the fifteenth century.

Pocitelj, is a UNESCO site, which boasts a long history as a fortified city playing a strategic role during the medieval period under Hungarian rule.

During the Ottoman occupation, however, the town developed and some of the buildings that characterize it were built such as mosques, hammam and baths, schools (Makteb and madresa) and the clock tower.

The present country is profoundly different from the original one. Today, part of its original beauty can be glimpsed. The war of the 90s, in fact, seriously damaged it. In fact, in August 1993, the HVO troops, the Croatian army partially destroyed it. And ethnic cleansing did the rest.

Click to see a video about this village and nearby Mostar before the war (1971).

Despite everything, this village manages to keep its charm unaltered and today, thanks to a skilful reconstruction, it is recovering the beauty of the past.

Po? Itelj is a small village that would take just under an hour to cross it all. To visit it as it deserves, we suggest a slow walk, favoring the itinerary that climbs from the square to the fortress from where you can see the course of the Neretva from above.

The village, in your eyes, will have all the features of an open-air museum. In the narrow streets of the village, now almost uninhabited, there are still some artisan shops and it is possible to buy fruit (figs, grapes and plums) as well as classic souvenirs. But if you are lucky you can also meet unknown artists who exhibit their works on the street.

Moreover, the Italian painter Vittorio Miele also lived in this village, who took inspiration from the Stari Grad (in Italian "old city") for some of his paintings.

The visit of Po? Itelj begins shortly after passing the handful of restaurants, kiosks and souvenir stalls that are located in the small square in the valley near the parking lot.

From here, in fact, some streets paved with gray stone climb up the mountain, which pass under arcades and become stairs that lead up to the Hadži Alija Mosque.

During the ascent, in the middle of the vegetation, the mosque is in plain sight in the background, but with a pinch of attention you can also peer into a madrasa (the Koranic school) with the typical domes, and a series of perfectly restored historic houses.

The mosque has undergone extensive and repeated restoration work. The last ones began in 2002 and also unearthed a dome and the minaret destroyed by the bombs of the war in 1993. What remained is exhibited in the open space adjacent to the entrance, as if to remember the wound suffered and as a reminder of memory.

Not far from the mosque there is a Turkish-style building that since the 1960s has housed the International Art Colony of Pocitelj where artists from all over Bosnia and the rest of the world gather and come to meet, live and work in spaces at dedicated to them; visitors can entertain themselves in the gallery with the works of the guests or relax in the adjacent courtyard.

Click to know the artistic vocation of PociItelj.

The Fortress is not very far from here. It overlooks the town and represents the panoramic place par excellence of the Borgo. It deserves to reach it for some photos, a stop for a restaurant but above all to admire the beautiful panorama that can be glimpsed, from up here, over the village and the whole surrounding valley.

Click to retrace "step by step" a nice video of the village and its most characteristic views.