The Osmize of the Trieste Karst

Osmiza, is a type of place typical of the Karst plateau, between Italy and Slovenia, where wines and typical products (such as eggs, hams, salamis and cheeses) are sold and consumed directly in the premises and cellars of the farmers who they produce them.

Osmiza, also locally called "frasca", is a centuries-old tradition from Trieste, which originated in 1784.

In this period, while in Vienna the tradition of the "Heurigen" of Grinzig (a Viennese suburb where new white wine was served) began; on the Karst, a special decree issued by Joseph II of Habsburg allowed farmers to market the bulk wine produced on their farms for eight days.

The term osmiza (in Slovenian osmica), moreover, derives from the Slovenian word osem (meaning “eight”), that is the duration of the concession of the opening period.

The osmize, after centuries, remain one of the most beautiful food and wine traditions of the Trieste Karst. Click to access the card that talks about this plateau.

From Sgonico to Monrupino, passing through Val Rosandra, there is no farmer from some remote karst hamlet who does not open, for a few weeks, the garden of his home or his tavern to offer wine and products at good prices. local, strictly, of its production.

Some Osmize, those located on the Cariscus ridge, also offer splendid views of the coast and the Gulf of Trieste.

Few makeshift tables, some benches, the absence of waiters are some of the unique features of these places. Living an experience in osmiza means carving out a few hours of lightheartedness and joy to spend in company in a family environment.

In the often shared tables it is possible to meet people of all ages. From the elderly who meet to play cards, to families with small children or groups who come here to stay together and, perhaps, to have a "cantata" in company.

Spending time in these places is the best way to discover the Karst and grasp the sense of tradition, in some cases handed down from generation to generation.

The osmize, after all, remain a pleasant, exclusively family-run reality, also projected towards the protection of the territory to maintain the historicity of the wine and the vines.

Before it was the parents and now it is the children who carry on this tradition, which, in most cases, does not represent the main source of family livelihood.

Opening an osmiza, except in the case of a few agritourism businesses, means for the owners that it is necessary to take a few weeks off from their main job to devote themselves to a passion.

The osmiza is managed on a family level. Few things are offered but strictly of own production and without any manipulation. This is a feature that distinguishes the osmize from the farmhouses, where there is a decidedly more varied cuisine and menu.

In Osmiza, the first or second courses are not prepared. At most, platters of cold cuts are offered, cheeses perhaps combined with some pickles and hard-boiled eggs to be seasoned with salt and pepper. All accompanied with large slices of bread.

Among the red wines, you can taste the Refosco or the sour Terano (in Slovenian Teran): a red wine, of medium alcohol content with a pleasantly acidulous but very tasty taste.

Click to learn more'.

Among the white wines, however, Malvasia or Vitovska stand out. If the first is characterized by a fairly high alcohol content (11-12 °) and a fruity aroma, the second is characterized by a pleasant straw color and a delicate perfume reminiscent of pear.

At most, after wines and cold cuts, you can taste grappas and liqueurs, and maybe some desserts, such as strudel, always and strictly "homemade".

The duration of the Osmize is not well defined. Indicatively, they are open from early spring until late autumn.

Each family, from year to year, has the right to decide when to open. After all, for the start of the activity only a simple communication to the municipal authority is required.

The closure, however, does not always respect the eight canonical days, because it is difficult for the farmers to close as long as there is wine and enthusiasm.

Getting to Osmize is not difficult. But not easy either. It takes a little familiarity with karst traditions.

To find some (obviously open) it is sufficient to look, along the roads of the province, for that particular indication that distinguishes them and, usually, the farmers settle at the intersections.

It is a branch of dry leaves with a red arrow indicating the direction and the name of the karst fraction that must be reached to find an open Osmiza.

Year after year, the opening periods of the Osmize have expanded. An updated calendar is also available on the web, complete with a map and information sheet, on the dedicated site that accurately indicates the "open branches" also offering the GPS coordinates or bus lines necessary to reach them.

Even the Osmize, like every long-standing custom, do not escape the general difficulty of making ancient traditions persist. Their number has dropped from the past three hundred to the current seventy. Managing a good level branch is not always easy.

For some farmers, it may be more profitable to bottle the wine produced and then resell it to wine shops, or to change the commercial destination of Osmiza, preferring its agritourism, which ensures much greater earnings.

“Going to Osmize”: five things to know before going there and some suggestions to find them

There are five things to know before "going for osmize". Click to see the video that tells them. Then comes the "difficult". Find them!

Below, we indicate four "strategic places" of the Trieste Karst, from which to start "branch after branch" to try your hand at that exciting open "Osmiza hunt".

SISTIANA (direction Malchina):
- Google Maps: clicca

- GPS coordinates: 45.7703056 / 13.6390786;

SISTIANA (Aurisina Direction):
- Google Map: clicca

- GPS coordinates: 45.7703056 / 13.6390786;

GABROVIZES:
- Google Maps: clicca

- GPS coordinates: 45.7279096 / 13.7299051;

SALES:
- Google Maps: clicca

- GPS coordinates: (45.7468123 / 13.722006);

Map: The Osmize of the Trieste Karst